Two Days, Four Dumpling Dishes

The Oregonian declared February 1-7 as the Dumpling Week.  Zara alerted Allyson, who copied me.   19 restaurants with 19 qualifying dishes.  Go. Eat. Get stickers, and enter to win a drawing.

Okay?  Okay.

Sticker 1:  Viking Soul Food's Onion Klubb  

Onion Klubb from Viking Soul Food

Where the heck is it?  Oh, it's a food cart.  It's 43 degrees and feels colder.  With an unheated common seating area for the pod on 43rd and Belmont, eating fast was imperative.

$5.  The fish sauce made for an interesting flavor. Shrimp and fresh sprig of dill on top.

Only later did I realize that the fist-sized congealed mass I ate was mostly potato with some flour.  Which begs the question, what is a dumpling?  [2/1/2015]

Sidebar: What is a dumpling?

It's dough: flour, potato, or bread with add ons such as meat, sweets, fish or vegetables.  People cook them in different ways.  Wontons, such as pot stickers count, as do raviolis. 

Sticker 2:  Son of a Biscuit.

Son of a Biscuit

Indoors is good.  The rappy, hip-hop tunes undercut the homage to a southern diner.  But I liked the music.

$5 for parmesan and chive dumplings in lemon chicken consumme (lots of heat from pepper).  A few peas and just a few chicken remnants (maybe enough to fill a shot glass) to enjoy with the spork.

The dumplings?  Ball-o-dough?  I'm sure they are good for people who appreciate dumplings.  I found them filling and okay.  They reminded me of when we balled up bread on a treble hook to catch carp out of the Illinois River as a child.  If I could, I'd order the soup with more chicken and fewer dumplings.   [2/1/2015]

Sticker 3:  Mama Chow's Kitchen

Mama Chow's Kitchen

I expected a matronly Asian woman in this food cart.  But friendly Jeff was running the show. Perfect location to grab some food for a brownbag seminar two blocks away.

I'd call 'em good potstickers.  Jeff calls them, "Chicken and Taiwan Cabbage dumplings on a bed of baby green bock toy served with spicy dipping sauce."


$7 seemed reasonable for a meal's worth of tasty dumplings served over healthful, steamed book choy.  I'd return to Mama Chow's.   [2/2/2015]


Sticker 4:  Departure

View from Departure

Quite a departure from food carts.  The elevator doors open on the 15th floor to a dark and neon-like, space-agey tunnel.  It felt like I'd run into Captain Kirk or step into a Michael Jackson video from the 1980s.  Then, one enters the bar and finds the windows to see the beautiful light.

In addition to cloth napkins and china, Departure served "Chef Gordet's winning shrimp dumplings from Top Chef, made with palm sugar, ginger and crispy shallot."

Chef Gordet's flavors were more nuanced, yet not all that dissimilar from the spices of Mama Chow's.  What separated this $11 offering (besides the higher-rent space) was the steamed preparation as compared to pan fried.   I washed it down with water and NOT a $12 glass of wine. [2/2/2015].

Stammtisch Restaurant, Portland

Restaurateurs Dan Hart and Chris Navarra know how to make people feel at home, feed us well, and give us good bier and cocktails.  I love their new place they named Stammtisch.

On this Monday night, there was a good crowd of people ranging from 20s to middle age.  Mostly younger.  I expected a wide array of biers, but the quality of food and cocktails surprised me.  

I had the braised trout with vegetables and a wine butter reduction sauce.  It was perfectly moist, flavorful, and not one single bone.  My better half just had a pretzel, but she raved about that, too. 

After my bier, I had a gin cocktail that exceeded the standard I'd expect from Secret Society.  Only this German recipe I had not seen before:  gin, obstler, riesling syrup and lemon. 

On top of it all was a very accommodating and friendly staff in the newly-redecorated, warm setting.  The policy of sharing tables "forced" us to have a great conversation with another couple.  

Stammtisch is a terrific new place.

Double Dragon: Restaurant Review

Bánh mì generally, comes from the French occupation of Vietnam. You combine a French baguette with Vietnamese flavor, and, ta-dah! You have Banh Mi. True to that tradition, the White guy from New Jersey who opened Double Dragon slices open a several inches of a baguette, toasts it, and stuffs it with fillings. The menu offers grilled vegetables, pork belly, and other items. I had the Vietnamese-seasoned pulled pork. The baguette was fresh, and the pork was very tasty without burning my mouth. Bottles of hot sauce are available for those who like it hotter. It came with (very few) seasoned potato chips.

The environment is casual and basic. Order at one end of the counter and pick up at the other end; no table service. The front room has glass walls on three sides, making for a nice bright environment, There’s a windowless back room, too. Plenty of room to sit down. There are even a couple of picnic tables outside on the corner of SE 12th and Division.

Ban Mi at Double Dragon provides a pretty good quick food fix: 3 times tastier than Subway and, at $7.50, only 1.5 times the price.

Jake's Famous Crawfish? Skip it.

A gift certificate got me into Jake's for the first time in a few years. Same ol' menu, except, "The steelhead is now wild," according to the waitress.

I had the fish. What fish? Trust me, when it is smothered in butter, salt, and pepper, it does not matter. It all tastes the same. When my face started getting flushed from the high sodium content, I wished they'd given me a feather and directions to a vomitorium. Honestly, the deep-fried gator at Gatorworld in Florida offers better seafood than this Portland landmark.

But never mind my opinion. Jake’s is always packed.

Restaurant Review: Bar Avignon

Avignon is a small city in France with a long, rich history. Bar Avignon a small restaurant in Portland with a long wine list that includes many French wines. The food, fortunately, is fresh, local Northwest, which is much more to my liking than French food. I suppose that’s why the owners named it Bar Avignon and not Restaurant Avignon.

On this chilly, black November night, Bar Avignon’s warm, soft lighting welcomed diners. The wall of wine bottles and the chalkboard admonition -- “I will not drink bad wine. I will not drink bad wine. . . . [a la Bart Simpson] –- make patrons forget that BA serves liquor, too. Background music remained in the background, and did not force loud conversation. The long bar transects almost the entire space and with tables along the edge. The clientele consisted mostly of nice-looking people in their 30s through 50s.

The food menu, although somewhat short, made our choices difficult, especially after we had a chance to see what others were eating. The delicious-sounding “Autumn vegetables with fig-hazelnut salsa” did not disappoint. The seared tuna with white bean puree was very tasty, but, even for a small plate, was VERY small. The entrees, however, are full-portioned and all looked good. BA offers one of each basic category: chicken, pork, pasta, beef, and seafood. We shared the chicken, which was moist and flavorful.

A thumbs up for Bar Avignon.

Restaurant Review: Wafu

Wafu is the Japanese-inspired restaurant on 31st and SE Division. It occupies a long narrow space with a big group table, seats at the bar, seats around the kitchen and a few other tables. Big lantern lamps, pictured above, try to set the atmosphere.

Tonight, Wafu, dared to offer ceviche with Thai spices. I say "dared," because Wafu is a block away from Pok Pok, the very popular Thai restaurant. Pok Pok is so popular that it has an annex for people to wait. So, right in Pok Pok’s back yard, this two-month upstart restaurant offers something with Thai flavors. My verdict: Wafu’s Thai beat Pok Pok. The fresh herbs and chiles were perfectly balanced: a full-mouthed flavor without any too-hot burn. Also, the fish (tonight it was Mahi-Mahi) seemed much higher quality than the food I had eaten at Pok Pok.

Wafu’s gimmick is ramen noodles, but it is not the ramen you survived on during college. It is heartier, and Wafu offers choices of broths and “toppings,” such as pork, chicken or mushrooms. Here’s the menu. Additionally, Wafu posts its daily specials on the wall.

Wafu’s bartender was a real professional. He knew how to mix a cocktail with flare, shaking it cold high over his shoulder.

My recommendation? Next time your friends drag you to Pok Pok and Pok Pok tells you to wait at the Wiskey Soda Lounge, walk just another 20 yards or so to Wafu. The food is better, and you will be treated more as a welcomed guest than another number.

Restaurant Review: Bijou Cafe

Bijou Cafe is a breakfast-time institution. I’ve enjoyed many breakfasts in the light, airy space. It’s a low-key place to relax, despite the thousands of power breakfasts that have occurred there over the decades. The foods tend toward comfort food, with their muffins, pancakes, and omelets. Today, however, we tried it for lunch.

I could have had breakfast at 1:00 p.m., and, sadly, I should have. Bijou’s lunch menu is somewhat limited. Al’ had a fresh salad with chicken, which she enjoyed. I had the chicken enchilada, which was not so great. The flavor was kind of bland; the fragmentary tortilla was hard, almost crispy. My biggest issue was the rubbery chicken.

The friendly server attended to my cup of coffee. The restaurant remains a pleasant place to visit. But, I suppose, there’s a reason why people wait in line for breakfast, while there were plenty of tables free when we arrived for lunch.

Restaurant Review: Kin

“That is excellent!” “Wow!” “I can’t think of better food in Portland.” Those were among the spontaneous reviews coming out of our mouths after the food went in at Kin.

Kin is a chef-owned restaurant, and chef Kevin Shikami has a top reputation, having worked in Paris and San Francisco and having owned restaurants in Chicago. Maybe being the first diners on a quiet Tuesday evening gave us his undivided attention and best efforts. Although the menu changes daily, we had some of the regular items: tuna tartar, steamed buns with pork, salmon, and deserts. All five items exceeded expectation.

I’ll skip to the buns. The last time I had steamed buns was in a Chinese restaurant, which were baseball-sized bread with a speck of something inside. By contrast, the “buns” at Kin are better called pork belly burgers. The buns have a softer and more porous texture and much better flavor than those buns we get at Chinese restaurants. Also, they were cut like a hamburger bun. Inside was a thick cut of pork, which, again, was flavorful and cooked to perfection. We were tempted to pick up the plate to lick every drop of sauce, but, instead, I used some bread. I can imagine returning to Kin after work for a drink and the buns / sliders.

Yes, we’ve all eaten salmon 5,000 times in Portland. There were other more adventurous items on the menu. But despite this, the salmon did not just provide us food on a “school night.” It was a real treat. Unfortunately, I do not have the vocabulary to tell you how or why the sauce was a cut above. I can tell you that it was very tender inside and firm outside. I can tell you that the greens underneath were flavorful, and the little side of a so-called spring roll looked and tasted better than any spring roll I’d had before. It was indisputably fresh, not hard-packed, and filled with chunks of salmon.

The two deserts we had were also top-flight: artful, creative and delicious.

Just go to Kin. Keep this chef happy so he does not leave us in Portland like he left Chicago. I suspect his departure disappointed many Chicagoans.

Restaurant Review: Bamboo Sushi

Culinary correctness. Portland Kosher. Taliban sushi.

Maybe none of the above is a fair summary of Bamboo Sushi, but the terms come to mind when every other page of its menu notes another certification Bamboo Sushi has earned. These are not awards for culinary skill. Bamboo Sushi does not brag about James Beard Awards or kudos from the Oregonian or Willamette Week. Instead, it is all about culinary correctness, Portland's version of Kosher, including the first ever Marine Stewardship Council certified sushi restaurant in the world; Business for Environmentally Sustainable Tomorrow; Green Source Business; Monterey Bay Aquarium Seafood Watch; Salmon Nation; KidSafe Seafood; Green Restaurant Association; Blue Ocean Institute.

The menu also assumes that diners don’t know how to eat sushi. It contains a full page on “Sushi Etiquette,” with directions to eat fish from least fat content to most fat content, “don’t cross chopsticks when you set them down,” use fingers when eating nigiri and eat in one bite, “two at most.” Can you imagine Noble Rot instructing us on how to swirl and sniff wine?

Despite the pretentiousness, I really like Bamboo Sushi. The food and cocktails are very good. (Although, in contrast to its claim to sustainability, I did not see any Oregon vodka among the vodka bottles behind the bar.) It offers a variety of sakes, if you are into that. Eating off the happy hour menu is a delight. The ambience is great, as it gets a good mix of people, from hip and young to older people who appreciate the modern, cool, decor, which fits the Japanese and Japanese-inspired menu.

Seriously, I’m very happy to know that I’m not participating in the destruction of fisheries. (I'm less happy to be reminded about the problem when relaxing over dinner). I figure that any place that is so particular about what it purchases will provide me with fresh and healthful food. So far, after three visits to Bamboo Sushi, I think food is delicious and creative. Bamboo Sushi lives up to its slogan of “sustainable delectable possible.”

I’m not the only one who agrees that the food is delectable. One of my visits was on a quiet Sunday night. Yet, we still had to wait for a long time because others found the food and atmosphere compelling.

I mention all of the certifications and partnerships because the restaurant, itself, does. It is so "Portland" to aspire to be the number one, very best, top-of-the-heap environmental good citizen (in a very humble way, of course).

Screen Door Restaurant Review

Restaurant: Screen Door

Type of Food: Southern

Date: 9/8/2011

In 6 words or fewer: Southern Meets Portland



Review: The Menu offers up a challenge, "How to I choose among the several good items?" So, my default at Screen Door is the Screen Door Plate, which allows the diner to select three items from the "sides" menu or the "local organics" menu plus cornbread. For $13.95, that's a good deal.

The "Local Organics" menu is why I say this is Southern meets Portland. The cooks get whatever is fresh that day and make something from it. For example, squash was in season, and squash appeared in the Summer Vegetable Saute. So, one can avoid fried foods if necessary, and eat, for example, the Black Mission Fig and Pluot Salad. But then, why eat at a southern food restaurant if you do not get something that is fried?

The cocktail menu is also very good. It includes Southern favorites plus other cocktails, which hit the spot on a hot summer night.

The atmosphere is busy and loud. The clientele ranges from middle-aged men, to young people with guaged ears and tatoos, to families. A good cross-section of Portland patronizes Screen Door because this restaurant offers good food at reasonable prices. You will not leave feeling hungry.

Marco's Cafe - Review

Restaurant: Marco's Cafe

Type of Food: American

Date: 9/8/2011

In 6 words or fewer: As if your Aunt could cook.

Review: Marco's cafe is a great neighborhood restaurant, which we've enjoyed for years. Located in Multnomah Village, Marco's is homey, with waitresses who feel more like a favorite aunt than a hipster.

It's bedrock is a very strong & long breakfast menu, from which you may order all day. It ranges from simple ham and eggs, to a selection of benedicts, french toast, to Andouille & Asparagus Omlette. The menu is not as adventurous as Tasty & Sons, but there's something for everyone.

Marco's lunch and dinner menus also start with basics, but offer more. It boasts a number of different salads, including this one:

• dried Bing cherries, golden beets, avocado, tomato, red onion, almonds and asiago cheese atop mixed greens, topped with citrus, shallot and asiago vinaigrette dressing.

Look for the specials for dinner. In fact. you my look for them on line here. The specials are consistently well prepared.

Bottom Line: Marco's Cafe is a well-run restaurant. I've been coming back to Marco's for 20 years for the good food, good prices, friendly staff.

Justa Pasta Review

Restaurant: Justa Pasta

Type of Food: Italian

Date: 9/2/2011

In 6 words or fewer: Relax and mangia.

Review: Justa Pasta is a great little place to relax with a glass of wine and some fresh pasta.

The format is very casual. Get in line at the cash register, review the regular printed menu and the chalkboard daily specials for food and wine. If you want water, get it yourself on the way to your table. Once seated, you are treated as you would be in a regular restaurant.

The place has two cozy rooms indoors and tables outdoors on summer nights.

We went there because we wanted tasty comfort food without any scene. It had been a long week, and I just wanted to eat and relax with my wife.

On this night, the chalkboard menu offered wild king salmon and chicken parmesan, among other things. I took the chicken parmesan, and it hit the spot. The sauce had a little kick to it, but there was nothing extraordinary about the food.

Three Perfect Days in Portland: Night One, Secret Society / Toro Bravo

For most restaurants, when the hostess says “It’s about a1 ½ to 2 hour wait.” We say, “Thanks, anyway.” We stayed for Toro Bravo.

Two reasons to stay: The Secret Society & the food.


The Secret Society is the creaky, 1907, former fraternal hall upstairs from Toro Bravo. I rank it as the best bar in Portland because of a combination of great cocktails, cozy, unique atmosphere, and fun people who frequent there. The ballroom hosts musicians, who often play 1940s music. At times, some patrons will dress the part. In the past, we’ve been there when it looked like we walked into a WWII movie. Tonight, the crowded place bumped us into other friendly folks, one of whom took the picture at top.


Toro Bravo serves really delicious, creative food on small plates to share. I hate to use the word "tapas," because they are better than the tapas you've eaten elsewhere. The atmosphere is great: High ceilings, common tables, regular tables, and seating on bar-like stools. The noise from a roomful of convivial conversation and background musical downbeats allows for private conversations even when sharing a common table. Willamette Week, Portland’s venerable entertainment weekly, ranked it Restaurant of the Year in 2007, and Toro Bravo continues to please. It started with an free appetizer of padrone peppers as we selected our plates to share with each other. It finished with two desserts: Churros to dip in chocolate and baked summer fruit with ice cream. In between, little taste bombs exploded in our mouths.

After dinner, we drove across the Willamette River, with the city lights twinkling, toward the Pearl District, where Rob met us for a drink at Teardrop.