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White Salmon River (click to enlarge) |
The White Salmon River has transported pure water and salmon
to the Columbia River since time immemorial. The Columbia River Gorge area was a vast gathering place for
First Peoples, the epicenter of which was The Dalles, Oregon, where the volcanic
rocky slabs narrowed the Columbia (before we constructed The Dalles Dam). In the narrows, Native Americans netted
the salmon swimming upstream to other parts of Washington, Oregon and Idaho. Native Americans socialized, gambled and
even created rock art as they harvested the salmon and processed what they
could not eat today it into pemmican for the months ahead. Studies of thousand-year-old bones
indicate that salmon may have constituted nearly 50% of the diet of the Klickitat,
Chinook and other First Peoples.
I’m not sure when I first met Jim. Maybe we attended Mrs. Cavanass’ kindergarten class
together. Maybe we met some time
later at Madison Elementary School in Elmhurst, Illinois. Either way, the time span is rapidly
approaching 50 years. Not exactly
time immemorial, but give me a few more years towards Alzheimer’s, and I’ll
need this journal to remember things. We discovered that we both lived in Portland a couple of years
ago, thanks to mutual Facebook friends. Friday, we got together with his wife
Jill to raft the wild and scenic White Salmon River.
Zoller’s operates rafting trips from BZ Corners. After they fit all their customers into
wetsuits, booties, splash jackets, life jackets and helmets, they start
instructing us on how to raft safely. The instructions seemed to last forever. -- “If you fall out, don’t stand up you
might break a leg. Float on your
back with feet up. If someone
falls out, grab him by the life vest and yank him back. Don’t grab the arm or
wrist; might break something.”
Finally, we march down and down and down the stairs to the
bottom of the canyon and step into the rafts. It’s cool down there by the rushing
river and the mossy rock wall. Jim,
Jill, our raft mates and I received an extra dose of instructions, cautions and
war stories. That’s because ours was the last raft to launch. So, Ben, our guide, kept talking. He made sure we knew where to jam our
feet for maximum holding power.
But, no one ever told us where to put our keesters.
The Middle Gorge of the White Salmon runs fast and
cold. Whitewater dominates. It is a wild and fun ride. It is too wild for Allyson. She did not join us because, last time,
she fell out of the raft. When I
yanked her back in, she looked up at the high canyon walls and realized she had
to continue the bucking bronco ride. There was no way out.
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Rafts launching on White Salmon River |
At long last, we launch.
Ben has been doing this for years and years: over 400 trips down the river. If someone pops out of the raft, his
boss fines him $5. Ben was an
entertaining guy. He kept talking
the whole time. He told us about
nature; he showed us the nest of an American Dipper. Ben had not lost a rafter all season, so far. Ben showed us where he has found Native American artifacts along the river. He never told us where to place hind
ends.
You guessed it.
Someone fell out of the raft.
We fished her out with no broken bones. Then, Ben tells her, for future reference, where on the raft
she should’ve sat to avoid falling.
Overall, it was a terrific trip. Zoller’s offers people many places to get wet, whether it is
paddling the raft upstream into a rapid, jumping off a 10-foot wall, or trying
to survive Husum Falls. We skipped
the falls, thinking that the potential for spending months rehabbing body parts
was not worth the thrill.
Four rafts full of people tried it. People paddle fiercely towards the roaring drop off. Then, they drop down to survival
position, and let fate take its course.
The rafts dive into the water below, submerge mostly or entirely out of
view, then pop up like a cork. The suspenseful question is whether they will land bottom down with people aboard. Most
made it, with only a couple of people falling out. (No fines to raft guides for losing people at the Falls.)
After the falls, the river mellows out some. This permits less focus on paddling and
allows more time to enjoy the scenery until our exit.
Later, we met Allyson at a brewpub in White Salmon, WA for
dinner.
So, as it was centuries ago, the Columbia Gorge area provided a gathering place for socializing around food and river activities. I had a lot of fun with my old / new friends, and we look
forward to getting together again soon.